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Author Topic: ICOM 706MK2G and Am-Com controller problem  (Read 1576 times)
W4CTH
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Posts: 14




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« on: June 24, 2006, 09:58:23 AM »

I am trying to get the Am-Com controller to work with the 706.  I can manually tune the antenna but the auto tune doesn't seem to work.  Am-Com no longer exists to support the product.  If there is anyone out there with this set-up that can help me, please reply or email me at w4cth@hotmail.com.  Thanks and 73,

Joe
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W3LK
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Posts: 5639




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« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2006, 11:32:30 AM »

Joe:

(1) do you have the manual? You absolutely need the manual to set this thing up. I think I can lay my hands on mine, if you dont.

(2) Have you programmed the "auto-tune" settings? The unit must be programmed, it does nothing automatically otherwise.

I use one with an Alinco/High Sierra combo. It's better than nothing, but not by much.

73,

Lon - W3LK
Baltimore, Maryland
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W4CTH
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Posts: 14




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« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2006, 08:49:09 PM »

Thanks for replying, Lon.   I do have the manual and I thought that I had programmed it properly.  I will repeat the programming process again tomorrow.  BTW, I am using it with a High Sierra also.  I purchased it about three years ago but never had installed it.  I went to a fair amount of trouble running the cables for my mobile installation and I would like to try to get it to work.  73
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K0BG
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« Reply #3 on: June 25, 2006, 08:52:42 AM »

I've tried three different auto controllers (two RF, and one that used the turns counter), and I never got any of them to work like I think they should. If you have, great! The problems I experienced were mostly RFI related (I run an amp).

Even though the control lines are beaded (7 turns each through a mix 31 bead), shielded, and bypassed, enough RF got into the MFJ unit to zap the controller chip in less than a week. The Turbo Tuner worked okay, and stopped where it should have most of the time, but not every time. As you're aware, these things use a current sense to detect the end of travel, and just a little RF and they don't work right (usually stopping to soon). I never did get the Am-Com to work.

I opted to use an LDG Talking wattmeter, and I have been very happy with it. Yes, it requires you to manually tune, but the fact that you do not have to watch a meter (it squeals) negates this disadvantage.

Alan, KØBG
www.k0bg.com
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W3LK
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Posts: 5639




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« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2006, 01:53:09 PM »

I had to go through the process a couple of times to get some of the settings to "take".

Alan: that's what you get for running high power mobile. <gg>

73,

Lon - W3LK
Baltimore, Maryland
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W4CTH
Member

Posts: 14




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« Reply #5 on: June 25, 2006, 02:27:45 PM »

I may be getting somewhere.  I read the set up again, this time carefully.  I noticed that it said to power up both the controller and the transciever while holding both red buttons.  When I wired the controller, I took 12v directly off a power node previously installed that is always on.  I thought that I was complying with setup instructions just by powering up the Xcvr especially since I got a CM in code followed by two beeps.  So, I disconnected the controller and reconnected it while my XYL held the buttons and powered up the Xcvr.  Now when I pushed "Tuner" on the Xcvr the antenna moves.  That wasn't happening when I posted the first msg.  Now I have to set the stall detection.  In order to do this I am going to have to wire in a Sw so I can manually power up the controller.  Probably not a bad idea not to have the controller hot all the time anyway.  I will be travelling for a few days this week and may not be able to get the Sw installed.  I'll bring this thread up later this week when I complete the Sw installation and let you guys know how things are going (or not).  Thanks again for all your help.  

73,   Joe
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W3LK
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Posts: 5639




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« Reply #6 on: June 25, 2006, 03:57:02 PM »

My controller is powered by the rig. Only the antenna motor has a seperate power feed.

I have no way to control the power to the controller separately apart from the rig. When I turn the rig on or off, the controller goes on or off with it.

73,

Lon - W3LK
Baltimore, Maryland
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K5ADF
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Posts: 7




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« Reply #7 on: June 27, 2006, 10:17:30 PM »

I have an AM-COM, High Sierra antenna and ICOM706MKIIG installed in my pickup.  The AM-COM is powered through the 706 so that when it is turned on both units are powered.  I was able to make the whole thing work although the HS would overrun and have to be backed up.  This was all done using the 706 tune button.  

I had the HS modified to use the new blackhawk motor.  It is quieter and does not move as fast.  Now the 706 tune button works without overrunning and having to back up.  That is the good part.  

The bad part is that I have now been unable to get the AM-COM to change the antenna direction.  It will extend the antenna all the way out and freeze.  I manually move the antenna back down past where I need it to be and the AM-COM will then move the antenna up correctly using the 706 tune button.  The current sensing part is not working on the AM-COM.  I have learned to live with it.  

The only setting on the 706 is that item 20 (AUTO RPTR) in the set mode needs to be set to "off" (default mode).  The tuner/call button needs to be depressed 1 second to activate the AM-COM.  

Good grounding is required to make this antenna work.  I used pipe strap available in the plumbing section of Home Depot to ground the HS to the pickup frame.  

I hope this helps.  
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W4CTH
Member

Posts: 14




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« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2006, 07:38:47 PM »

Good news.  The Am-Com is working (QSO completed) with the exception that it still will not reverse when it hits the end of travel.  Not a big problem as the antenna is mounted on the front of the truck and I have direct vision of its position.  I will try a few more times to set the stall current.  I have one final question.  A couple of you have said that the controller is powered from the 706 but the antenna motor has a separate power source.  My controller has only a single input for power. I have connected this terminal to a source connected directly to the battery.  This is the line I had to put a switch in in order to power up the controller with the XCVR for setup.  My installation manual said that the source should be rated at 3.5A and I could not find a way to draw that from the 706 MKIIG. What have you connected this terminal to?  Does the molex accessory connector on the back of the XCVR also provide power to the controller separate from the motor supply?
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W3LK
Member

Posts: 5639




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« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2006, 07:32:29 AM »

<< My controller has only a single input for power. I have connected this terminal to a source connected directly to the battery. This is the line I had to put a switch in in order to power up the controller with the XCVR for setup. >>

You are correct and I was in error. I was thinking of something else - too many toys in the vehicle!!!

Sorry for the confusion.

Lon - W3LK
Baltimore, Maryland
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