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Reviews Categories | Amplifiers: RF Power - HF & HF+6M | Yaesu FL-2100B/Z Help

Reviews Summary for Yaesu FL-2100B/Z
Yaesu FL-2100B/Z Reviews: 57 Average rating: 4.6/5 MSRP: $2000.00
Description: fl2100b
Product is not in production.
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N6CIC Rating: 5/5 Oct 5, 2018 16:50 Send this review to a friend
Update on a fine amplifier  Time owned: more than 12 months
This is an update on my last review which was in 2015. I since moved and had the amp in storage for three years. In my new house I had no convenient 220 VAC outlet, so I rewired it for 110 VAC. I also found that the bandswitch had stiffened up to almost be unusable. On taking the amp apart, I carefully lubed the moving parts of the bandswitch with light sewing machine oil, and added a couple of drops to the fans as well. Now the bandswitch clicks in just as before. I am careful to not overdrive the amp since I am on a 110 volt circuit. I am using it on 80 meters and it is working perfectly. My exciter is an Icom 7600 and it is switched with an Ameritron 704. Next I plan to replace the high voltage caps and I expect to get many more years out of this fine amp.
PY8WW Rating: 4/5 Jun 21, 2016 00:03 Send this review to a friend
Good  Time owned: more than 12 months
My fl- 2100B was modified for ceramic tubes. GI7B , the manager made ​​some changes in the system of parasites and exchanged the band key for a more robust . works efficiently around 800 watts rms .
W6AKF Rating: 5/5 Apr 17, 2015 14:38 Send this review to a friend
Since 1978  Time owned: more than 12 months
My FL-2100B amp has been used with three HF rigs, a FT101B and a TS-850 and now a FT-590S. I got it in 1978, just before the FCC banned 10 Meters on HF amplifies 1979. It still has the original Cetron 572B tubes that still a good output around 550W however, they are showing their age. I did have to send it back to Yaesu in 1995 for a bad rotary switch and they replaced, two mica caps, metal film resistor. They also told me the tubes were bad, I knew they were not, at that time, just another way to pad their repair cost. I took the advice from others who have posted their comments about replacement tubes on this forum to get the Taylor 572B tubes. In January 2014 I got a matched pair of the 572 BMP-TAY tubes fully tested from RF Parts. When old tubes pass on, Iíll replace them.

I had it out of line for about 3 months when I moved. When put it back in line I didnít do a good job of putting the ground back on the ground stud. I moved the amp around and un notice to me the ground came off. On key down I smelled a something burning. No visible smoke, however I noticed the S.W.R. A DC meter was no longer working.

So on its annual inspection & air blow-out in June, Iíll see if I can see what fried.

A great amp!

VE3TMT Rating: 5/5 Jan 1, 2015 19:12 Send this review to a friend
FL2100B Update  Time owned: 6 to 12 months
In the shack now for six months and still working FB! In addition to the HV supply updates, I have added LED lighting to the meters and most recently replaced the stock relay with smaller power relays that are much quieter. The amp almost sounds like a solid state amp. Amp is now running on 240V and I get much less of a voltage drop on transmit. Still putting out full 600W + on all bands. One thing I like about the FL2100, it's very easy to work on.
W3AMF Rating: 5/5 Dec 17, 2014 08:45 Send this review to a friend
A World Class RF Amplifier  Time owned: 0 to 3 months
My FL-2100Z, was acquired in November 2014, and had not been used for many years. Cosmetically, outside and inside, it is a "10." It certainly looks nice and business-like in my lineup.

It has two Taylor 572Bs installed, which the former owner believes were new and unused. I received two CETRON 572B "spares" (unknown condition) that my EICO 667 tube tester cannot test.

Upon performing a visual inspection , I discovered the top cover over the tubes compartment was not fastened down. When that cover is removed, the HV is shorted to protect the uninitiated or careless ham. Had I applied power with the cover removed, serious damage would have been done to the amplifier.

It is wired for 120VAC, and I connected it to a dedicated 20 AMP circuit, that I had installed for my AMP SUPPLY LA-1000A. As is my practice with all old gear, I warmed it up for about 5 hours at 85 VAC. I connected it to the station ground and was ready to go.

I have a Yaesu FT-101ZD MK II (see my review of that rig) with which the FL-2100Z was intended to be used. I decided instead to drive it with my Kenwood TS-570S (see my review of that rig). The TS-570S, unlike the FT-101ZD, does not require tune-up and has an internal ATU that could be used between the rig and the amplifier, if necessary. Later, I learned that it is not necessary to use the internal ATU to match the driver to the amplifier.

I connected the TS-570S and amplifier with a standard Kenwood ALC-RLY cable, made the antenna connections (using RG-8 cable, of course) and was ready to go. First, I turned off the internal ATU and connected the TS-570S to the antenna through an MFJ-989D tuner and obtained a 1:1 match.

Second, I switched the meter on the MFJ tuner to high power (don't forget this step!) and applied about 30 watts drive to the FL-FL-2100Z. I rechecked the SWR to be sure I still had a good match to the antenna.

Third, following the tune-up procedure in the manual, I gradually increased the drive power. Depending on the band 75-90 watts drive will produce full output.

I have used it on CW and SSB on all bands (except 30 meters!). Output measured on my MFJ-989D is close to the theoretical maximum efficiency of 70% for two 572Bs in class AB2. On 160 meters, I get about 500 W on CW and about 650 W PEP on SSB. On all other bands, I get 600-700 W on CW and about 800 W PEP on SSB. It is easy to reduce the power to 300 W CW and 600 W PEP SSB for my Mosley TA-33 JR, which cannot handle the full power.

My LA-1000A, by comparison, delivers meter readings of 450 W on CW and 500-600 W PEP on SSB. The FL-2100Z surely is a more robust amplifier. The cooling fans definitely can be heard, appear to do a good job, and are not objectionable.

Listeners have reported a difference of 1 to 3 "s-units" between the TS-570S 100 W output and the FL-2100Z's full output. An "average gain" of 2 s-units makes the FL-2100Z a useful accessory.

I rarely use an amplifier on CW and have too much respect for the 572Bs to use the FL-2100Z on AM. I just hope it continues to work as it now does.
M0WEM Rating: 5/5 Aug 12, 2014 06:04 Send this review to a friend
FL2100Z GREAT STUFF  Time owned: 6 to 12 months
Versatile multi-band amp (FL2100Z ( inc. WARC ).

Had mine for a while and works well on all bands.

Driven by the FT101ZD3 as the exciter, 20 watts in gives 200w out, and it loafs along.

Pointless beating it to death with loads of drive.

Would have liked it to had illuminated meters, but that is a minor gripe.

I built an external soft-start circuit for the amp, as it kept tripping the main breaker in the shack if i used it DOL.

Recommended, but treat with care (like most things in life.)

Happy Daze, Howard in the UK

K7LZR Rating: 5/5 Dec 27, 2013 18:33 Send this review to a friend
Compact & works well  Time owned: more than 12 months
This amplifier does as well as any other in its class. I have had no issues with mine and it has all original parts except for the tubes.

I only use tubes which have a proven good performance record and I'm careful to tune & load quickly & correctly and only into a good load.

I average about 750w PEP out with 75-100w of drive.

I have done no modifications whatsoever and honestly see no need to.

These are workhorse amplifiers and will usually last a long time if taken care of.
IZ0EAE Rating: 5/5 Mar 7, 2013 08:45 Send this review to a friend
Great Amplifier  Time owned: more than 12 months
I have the model FL2100B for about 10 years. I've always used the amp with a pilottaggio of 80 watts and antennas have low SWR 1.1 and I can say that the amplifier has always worked well without giving me any problems. In these 10 years I have not been very active and the amplifier has been stopped for about four years without ever being turned on. 2 years from now I began to do radio in a consistent and well my FL2100B had no problem to resume his work. Sper to be useful to someone leaving the following data:

Power input max 80 watts
Voltage HV 2400 volts
band 80 mt output 850 watts
band 40 mt output 850 watts
band 20 mt output 850 watts
band 15 mt output 730 watt
band 10 mt output 650 watts

Measurements with antenna SWR 1.2 and ROS Daiwa model CN801.

What else to say .... A GOOD LINEAR!!

73 de Angelo IZ0EAE
KK4IBG Rating: 5/5 Aug 7, 2012 21:43 Send this review to a friend
Great AMP  Time owned: 0 to 3 months
I just got one recently and it had a badly vaporized band switch in the 80 and 10 meter position , the rotors and contacts Gone. I found one in Canada from a friend NEW!!! still in the BAG! 5 hours and 30 pic's later I have a great amp, Cetron tubes, It works and performs very well.It also cleaned up well and has the plastic still on the front. My FT-101E station is complete.
Easy to work on , easy to tune and the tubes are always avail. some mods need to be done but I think its worth it you find a good one.
KE4ZHN Rating: 3/5 Apr 5, 2012 08:51 Send this review to a friend
An okay amp but not wonderful  Time owned: more than 12 months
I had one of the B models when I first got my general. They are okay but suffer from some design issues and some parts issues. The amp is very quiet but cooling could stand to be better. The small metal blade fans used really dont move enough air for my liking and the amp will get pretty hot after some good ragchews. This in itself isnt a huge problem that cant be solved by placing a small muffin fan on top of the amp...but if you need to add fans that tells me the ones inside arent doing the job. The power supply seemed a little anemic but adequate for the task. Mine would do 600w pep out with no sweat. You could push it harder but theres no point in beating it to death and gaining nothing. Nobody on the other end will notice a hundred more watts and your signal will splatter like hell if you run one that hard. Tune up is relatively smooth and easy on all the bands it covers. The horizontal tube mounting can create problems for hams using newer 572B's from Russia or China and the bias circuit quite frankly sucks in this amplifier. Some are prone to taking off into orbit due to insufficient cut off bias. With some TLC and a few minor mods this can be a decent amp for the money. A good "beginner" amp with all the minor warts worked out of it. The problem now is they are old enough that its hard to find nice ones that arent beat into the ground. Also, some parts would be near impossible to find unless you have a donor junk amp to get them from. Unless you like to tinker, a new ham would be much better off buying an AL811 to be honest.

Fixing old amps may be fine for hams who enjoy working on them but a new ham usually doesnt want to bother patching up old relics just to get on the air. And if they lack the knowledge to safely repair or modify an amp it can be dangerous or even fatal. If you find a clean working one thats been properly reworked by all means scoop it up, otherwise....youd be better off getting something newer. These have been around well over 30 years so you know the caps are on the way out before you even take off the cover if its all stock inside. The one I had for several years only failed on me once and it was a minor issue. At the time I was unaware of its design flaws but I had Cetron tubes in mine and it never had bias issues or run away problems. Unfortunately, 572B's have changed and this amps warts become obvious.
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