| AK2B |
Rating:  |
2005-06-06 | |
| ahhhhhh Elecraft! |
Time Owned: 0 to 3 months. |
I first built the KX1, then the K2 and now the K1. I was a bit apprehensive about buying a K1 at first, not knowing, but at the same time, very curious where the K1 fit into the line of Elecraft radios. It seemed to me that the KX1 had covered the major short-falls of the K1 – lighted display and DDS VFO with wider band coverage and variable tuning rate. After building the K1, I’ve come to the conclusion that no comparison is really necessary. The K1 is in its own little world. The KX1 is the ultimate portable radio. It screams “Take me, Take me anywhere!” Don’t get me wrong, you can take a K1 anywhere as well, I just don’t think the design principle is the same. The K1 would make a very decent, CW only, home station all on it’s own. If I were on a tight budget, the K1 would be my rig of choice over anything I can think of.
The receiver in the K1 is excellent. Once you find a station (the tuning rate is a bit fast and takes a little getting used to) and switch the crystal filter down to a couple hundred hertz, the signal just pops right out at you. The K1, overall, sounds great and I can listen for long periods of time without ear fatigue – probably a result of having a conventional VFO instead of some form of digital processing.
As with all the other Elecraft radios, the firmware adds a hidden dimension to the surface controls of the radio. Everything is so cleverly thought out. Important controls are easy to get at (CW memories, antenna tuning, etc) while less used controls are hidden behind the menu key.
I added the noise blanker and the ATU. The ATU is a must if you ever want to work “Park Bench Portable” and just throw a wire into a tree. I took the K1 to my car and jumpered the 102” whip after disconnecting it from my AH-4 antenna tuner. I had no problem tuning it on all four bands of the K1. I have a 20 meter dipole outside my apartment building fed with twin lead. My K2 ATU (the mother of all built-in ATU's) will tune it from 40 meters and above. The K1 ATU didn’t really like anything except 30 and 20 meters. So, I took one wire from the twin lead and connected it to the antenna connector center conductor and ran a counterpoise down the hallway connected to the ground side and hand no problem tuning it on 40. It worked very well this way during an entire weekend of contesting. The noise blanker does what noise blankers do – it works – on some things.
Building the radio was a joy – which is one of the major reasons why I buy Elecraft products in the first place. The construction and tune-up went together without a hitch. Even though I consider myself an experienced builder, I think anyone who can read and follow a manual (and solder) could easily build this kit.
I don’t believe I’ve ever used the word “cute” in the context of ham radio at any time that I can remember. I had never seen a “real” K1 before I ordered mine. When I removed the brown paper covering from the faceplate I actually started to laugh – it was so small...and so cute.
I am very pleased with the K1 as I am with all the other Elecraft radios. So much so that I’ve sold all the other rigs that were lying around collecting dust since I got the K2. I used to be a QRO kind of guy but have found that I enjoy the trials and tribulations of QRP. Having a good radio doesn’t hurt.
P.S.
I think Elecraft is a big plus in the world of ham radio. They prove that a transceiver doesn't have to be designed like a dime store window (with the entire inventory out front) in order to have a quality piece of merchandise capable of competing with and surpassing the best there is.
|
|
| AC6XA |
Rating: |
2005-06-02 | |
| Great little rig |
Time Owned: 0 to 3 months. |
I finished building this radio about a month ago and I'm enjoying it a lot. I built the 4 band version (40, 30, 20, and 15) and added the internal antenna tuner. It is my only HF rig, and it got me back on the air after an 8 year HF hiatus.
Construction was simple but a bit time consuming if you're careful. There were no missing parts in any of my kits. I had no big construction problems - I just made one poorly tinned toroid lead on the KAT-1 antenna tuner. It was the last toroid I installed and I could practically taste the finish line - so I rushed it! Not a good idea. The folks on the Elecraft mailing list quickly pointed me in the right direction when I told them my radio's symptoms. I removed the transformer, re-stripped the leads, and re-installed. It then worked perfectly.
My previous radio kit-building experience was a Wilderness SST several years ago. The K1 is no more difficult, it just takes longer.
I've had little trouble making contacts from my apartment with a "no counterpoise antenna" (it's reviewed by others here on eHam). I've reached JA and RA with 5 watts on 20m. The receiver seems excellent, although I don't have anything to compare it to, nor is my antenna location very good.
I built the radio for the wide VFO range (about 176kHz on my rig), but I am considering changing it to the narrower one. Replacing a capacitor and a little calibration is all that's necessary. Tuning, in my opinion, is a little touchy with the wide range.
I also built the XG1 signal generator and the Elecraft dummy load. The signal generator helped me calibrate the S meter and align the frequency display on 40, 20, and 15 meters. I used WWV to align 30 meters. The dummy load with built-in RF probe helped me peak the filters on transmit and calibrate the antenna tuner's watt meter. A dummy load is required but the signal generator is optional - if you have another transceiver or receiver you can use it to calibrate your K1.
I heartily recommend this rig to anyone who enjoys QRP and CW operation. |
|
| LA2MOA |
Rating: |
2005-05-16 | |
| Awesome little rig! |
Time Owned: 0 to 3 months. |
Easy to assemble, but you need to be very accurate when aligning the receiver. The final result is an amazing little rig with an awesome, hot receiver. I have worked KL7J as well as FT5XO on 30 meters, using just a half wave vertical from my QTH in the middle of Lillehammer city with all domestic noise, with the K1 - and, yes indeed - the filters are good! Receiver is quiet, I haven´t noticed any white noise. The dynamic range cannot match the K2 for obvious reasons and the AGC is perhaps a little bit too slow, byt hey, this can easily be modified!
I also have the KNB1 option installed, but haven´t found any use for it yet. If you´re looking for a multiband portable CW-rig, and want something "bigger" than the KX1 - the K1 is definetely for you! |
|
| WA0GED |
Rating: |
2005-03-18 | |
| Building the Elecraft K1 |
Time Owned: 0 to 3 months. |
This review is being made two months after assembling the K1 kit. I'm
doing so now because I am comfortable with its operation and the
construction process is still fresh in my mind. The Elecraft K1
owner's manual is written well by experienced technicians. The step by
step instructions, part descriptions, resistance/voltage charts and
graphics are excellent. Tests are made after each module is assembled.
My only problem was a bad MCU 4Mhz crystal. Elecraft email technical
support and replacement parts were helpful, prompt and free. A minor
change for the manual would be to install transformers T3 and T4
BEFORE installing Q7 and the right side panel. The side panel
interferes with installing the transformers.
This kit should be tackled only after mastering the art of soldering.
Some familiarity with parts identification and values should also be
achieved before plugging in the soldering iron. I used a Weller 25
watt soldering iron. Keep the soldering iron tip clean and tinned.
Before beginning a soldering session, jab the hot soldering iron tip
into a tin of soldering paste (flux) and then coat it with solder. If
the tip is cruddy, hold it over a waste basket and brush the hot tip
with a dense brass brush. Use the type with 1/2 to 3/4 inch brass
bristles used for cleaning white sidewall tires or cooking grills.
Damp cloths, sponges and brillo pads work but they cool the tip down
and are not as effective as a brass brush. After brushing the tip
clean, tin it. If the iron is not to be used in the next few minutes,
unplug it. After a few hours most small soldering iron tips develop
pits and distortions. Use a file or bench grinder to dress the
soldering iron tip. If too far gone, buy a new tip. For the K1
assembly I prefer the pencil tip in lieu of the spade tip. Use small
diameter solder.
Practice soldering. Practice removing components from a junk circuit
board without damaging the board. I find the most effective
desoldering tools are lots of desoldering braid, a tooth brush and a
wooden tooth pick. The best way to avoid the hazards of desoldering a
component is not to make mistakes in the first place. The instructions
point out pit-falls. Follow them carefully. If you must, destroy the
component, not the board. After soldering a board use a bright light
and a magnifying glass to examine both sides carefully for all aspects
of soldering mistakes. The manual describes what to look for. Another
good source for soldering tips is the Elecraft web site. Look for Tech
notes and articles or do a search on "reflections."
Alignment is made easier if one has an external rf power meter, a
dummy load, a signal generator/transmitter and/or a second receiver.
However the K1 has a digital LCD, so reasonable accuracy is possible
with no other test equipment other than a volt/ohm meter (either
digital or analog), a simple rf probe and a dummy load. I made a 55
ohm dummy load from four 220 ohm 2 watts resistors in parallel mounted
on a scrap piece of circuit board. I fastened a 3 inch piece of RG58/U
coax to the resistors and terminated it with a BNC connector. I
constructed and tested both four-band and two-band filter boards with
no signal generator or second receiver. I do NOT recommend using
on-air signals from a makeshift antenna OR a noise generator for
initial receiver alignment. Perhaps strong 40M signals can be found
day or night but signals on the other bands are too unreliable or weak
for initial alignment. Because the K1 generates its own low level RF
energy I found the transmitter alignment procedure was the most
effective method to peak the band pass filters which are used for both
transmit and receive. If no external rf power meter is available, an
rf probe made from a resistor and a diode as described in the manual
is used with the volt/ohm meter across the dummy load to measure the
peaks. The K1's digital watt meter can be used also but is not as
effective as an analog device. After initial tuning is done on
transmit, one can go back later and find receive signals to use for
peaking receive alignment by ear even though I found little
improvement by doing so. The manual recommends repeaking the filters
on transmit last. Use the CAL menu in the OSC mode to determine VFO
range edge frequencies. I used W1AW signals as an accurate frequency
source for the LCD frequency read-out calibration. For example, W1AW
transmits code practice sessions on 7,047,500, 14,047,500 and
21,067,500 HZ which are mid-band frequencies for the CW bands covered
by the K1. Consult the ARRL web site for times and other frequencies.
The performance and features of this little transceiver are amazing.
My model has built-in modifications and improvements that have evolved
since its inception. The receiver sensitivity is excellent. The three
selectable IF band widths accommodate almost all CW operating
conditions. The receiver increment tuning (RIT) covers plus or minus
3.7 KC either side of center frequency on my K1. The QSK (break-in)
feature works flawlessly. You can hear between the dits. The built-in
CW keyer has precise dit to dah ratios at low or high speeds. Code
speed is changed up or down in 1 wpm increments by tapping either of
two front panel switches. The VFO is stable and can be adjusted for
range and frequency. The AGC is effective. RF levels can be attenuated
by a front panel switch if needed. AGC can be disabled via the menu
but I do NOT recommend it. The audio output level to the built-in
speaker and head phone jack is adjusted with a knob. The BFO offset
tone frequency and the keyer tone frequency are adjustable; the BFO
with a variable capacitor, the keyer via the menu. The keyer tone
level can be set to match the received signal levels. Menu settings
disable RF output allowing the K1 to be used as a code practice
oscillator. Received signal strength and transmit power are displayed
on six bars across the LCD. They can be calibrated and compare
favorably with most analog meter needles. My K1 power can be adjusted
up to 6 Watts on five bands.
Front panel controls and the menu system are very well designed. It
takes a little time to become familiar with the menu controls but the
versatility is well worth the extra effort required learning them.
I ordered the KAT1 automatic antenna tuner. In the auto tune mode, the
ten relays chatter until a reasonable match is found. I found it to be
1.3 to 2.0 SWR on four bands (40, 30, 20 and 15M) to my 102 foot
dipole which is fed by 300 ohm twin lead through a 4:1 balun at the K1
end. However, if I use the built-in tuner in conjunction with my
external antenna tuner, an MFJ-949E, I achieve a 1:1 match as
indicated by the external tuner SWR meter. My external tuner has a
built-in 4:1 balun. The external tuner also adds some receive
selectivity by tuning out heterodynes otherwise heard with the KAT1
tuner only. The KAT1 tuner adds a sub-menu to the TUNE menu which,
among other features, displays SWR.
For a bare bones starting out rig, I recommend ordering the K1 with
the four band filter board - 40,30,20 and 15M. For a base station, use
a low power external antenna tuner with a SWR/RF Power meter and a 50
ohm dummy load. This type of tuner also serves for testing the K1.
Most noise blankers are of dubious value. The battery pack and
automatic tuner may be items needed by the back packers. They can be
added later. I use a 12 volt, 2 amp lap top computer power supply
purchased at a computer swap meet for $15. My keyer paddle is an old
hacksaw blade slapper I made from junk box parts 40 years ago. It
works and feels better than a commercial paddle I also own.
I operate most of the time unmindful that this is a low power rig. In
five weeks time I made 160 contacts, 60 of them DX stations around the
globe. Most hams know that band conditions and antenna characteristics
determine what you and others hear more than raw power. The Elecraft
K1 uses state-of-the-art parts and design. Its modular design is
compact and there are no loose wires. The K1 is fun to build and a
great little rig for the money.
|
|
| K5III |
Rating: |
2005-02-20 | |
| Very challenging |
Time Owned: 6 to 12 months. |
| I gave it a 5, yet there are specifics any prospective builder should be made aware of. I bought the K1-4. I am very experienced in electronics, however the K-1 is definitely not a beginners kit. It is a very challenging build and It is obvious that Eric and Wayne put a lot into the design. This is not a overnighter or weekender kit. It will take the average builder 30-40 hours and some even longer. You will need a good bench magnifier. It is built in stages. You will learn a lot especially patience. The torroids are not hard to wind, however again patience and emery cloth will help prior to tinning the leads. The filter board alignment is tough for the 4 bander. You will need another radio as a signal source. It is not something you can guess at. This applies to most radio kits. This radio is packed full of features and functions and you will have to spend time to learn them all. When all is said and done, your gonna have fun and don't be suprised if this is your "main radio". It is something you can be proud of. Maybe I'll do the KX-1 next. |
|
| KA5HZV |
Rating: |
2005-02-18 | |
| Great little radio |
Time Owned: N.A. |
I bought my K-1 already built. It came with a battery pack and the internal antenna tuner. Originally it was a 2 band model covering 80/40 meters. I built the 4 band module to cover 40/30/20/15. Changing modules is not as easy as it might seem, but worth the effort if you are doing some serious CQing. Everything about this radio operation is top notch. No one ever suspects I'm running 5 watts until I tell them. My only disappointment was the other day when I was heading to the field to operate the FYBO contest my wife accidentally dropped the radio from about a foot above the floor. It landed on the vfo and broke the pot. When I opened the rig to check for damage I found the 100k 10 turn pot used for tuning was made entirely of plastic. Even the shaft was plastic. I replaced it with a metal pot and was up and running in minutes.
Receiver is good and there are so many bells and whistles it's unreal. An absolute must if you are into QRP....
----------------------
Earlier 5-star review posted by KA5HZV on 2005-01-17
Like some others, I bought my K-1 already built. In the world of qrp it's the real deal. I never bother to mention that I am qrp when contacting other stations and so far no one has asked. Everything works flawlessly. Mine is the two bander so I have already ordered the four band module. I love the ATU and the built in battery compartment. I'll be needing these in the field for sure. For the money, I doubt you'll find a better qrp radio anywhere. Since buying mine I sold my MFJ-9040, Tentec TT-1320 and Argonaut 509... Ron/KA5HZV |
|
| W5TVW |
Rating: |
2005-02-03 | |
| Excellent radio overall. |
Time Owned: more than 12 months. |
I own K1 serial 1178. Built in mid 2002. Originally ordered as a 4 band rig with KBT1 battery option. This version had all the later modifications in the PC boards. The design is excellent. Went together easily. Performance is stellar. I built mine as having 80 khz tuning range and with 40/30/20/15 meter bands. I soon made two changes: discarded the KSB1 battery pack cover. Two reasons: the batteries are a big bother to get in and out and the smaller loudspeaker didn't have enough "oomph" for my old ears! Second change was the addition of the KAT1 antenna tuner. The sensitivity of the receiver is very excellent. It will keep up with my old IC-735 and a very fine Siemens E-410! Transmitter operation couldn't be simpler once you get used to the "menu" and learn the button functions. This doesn't take as long as you might think.
I have operated this unit in he field with great satisfaction and good results. I have settled on 33' lengths of wire for radiators and ground radials. The latest arrangement that works well and doesn't require and existing supports like lamp posts, trees, etc. is the use of an MFJ-1910 33' telescoping fibreglass mast. I usually support it with a large photo tripod. The legs anchored by 1 gallon plastic jugs full of water if it's windy. 33' wire for a vertical with 2-3 of the 33' wires laid on ground for radials. Operation is good from 40-15 meters with KAT1 tuner.
Latest addition to the "accessories" is a newly built 2 band board for 160 and 80 meters. (160 not being a 'standard' Elecraft band option!) It works very well and is quite satiusfactory. Also added another "kit" called the "HF Packer" to the setup. It is a small FET solid state amplifier that will deliver 35-40 watts with 2 watts of drive from the K1. VERY handy when the going gets rough or conditions are bad.
I would not hesitate to get another K1 if something happened to this one! A "can't go wrong" rig! |
|
| W6LAX |
Rating: |
2005-01-09 | |
| Surprising performance |
Time Owned: more than 12 months. |
I just spent a couple of hours on the NA QSO party with the K-1 and was reminded of what a good radio the K-1 is. Granted, I have added an audio DSP, but I still am surprised at how well I could hear weak stations within a few kc of really strong ones, and how I could pull weak signals out of the mud.
On the transmit side, the QSK is as smooth as it could possibly be, and using a pretty good antenna I only had two stations who did not come back to me -- not bad for 5 watts!
I built the kit 1-1/2 years ago (and wrote an initial review afterwards), and invested the last couple of evenings adding NB and ATU. They worked flawless the first time they were powered up; it is exciting to hear all the ATU relays click as it tunes. The ATU brought a 1.8 to 1 SWR to 1.1 to 1 in less than a second; the NB does an average job of cancling some annoying QRN.
----------------------
Earlier 5-star review posted by W6LAX on 2003-01-04
My Christmas vacation project was to build a K-1. What a pleasure to assemble - and it worked the first time I turned it on (which is a first for any project I've done!). I am painstakingly slow at this stuff, so it probably took me about 50 hours.
My real surprise was the quality of the receiver and QSK. My other rigs are top-of-the line models with all the DSP & bells 'n' whistles, so I was expecting this little K-1 by comparison to feel like a tinny "toy" - I was wrong. It is a surprisingly good receiver and its 5 watts really kick #$@, at least in the QRP segment of the band. Had I known it was this good a rig I would have bought the four-band version. I hope to have it out backpacking within six weeks or so.
By the way, if you're thinking of building a kit, do yourself a favor and buy one of those illuminated magnifying lenses that come with a big extension arm. I paid about $50 for one before I started this kit and it made the assembly more enjoyable and more accurate. |
|
| W9OY |
Rating: |
2004-09-28 | |
| Most fun ever during a Hurricane |
Time Owned: 0 to 3 months. |
I bought my K-1 used, and as such it was already built and aligned. It came in the Thursday before Francis made landfall. I was busy making preparations and had little time to look at the rig. Finally all the preparations were made, everything was buttoned up, the family had been dispatched to SC and all there was to do was wait.
I made a little adapter for a couple of gel cells and charged them up. About 6 Friday I lost power, and suddenly there was nothing to do. No TV to watch, no computer to track the storm, just impending darkness. I got out the flashlight and started reading the manual. I strung some coax to my antenna in the shack and hooked up the rig to the skyhook and the batteries. The rig came to life and I started tuning around 20 and 40. Soon enough I was making contacts including eastern and western Europe. It was a total gas and helped pass the time and break the tension during the landfall. Francis was a slow moving storm and took about 24 hours to come onshore and pass.
I expected to run the rig until the antenna fell down, but it never did! Guess it isn't up high enough. The selectivity is great on this rig as is the sensitivity. The AGC and QSK action is excellent, reminding me of the older Ten Tec rigs. The keyer is crisp and the built in memory is a help when calling QRP CQ's. I used a Windom for the antenna as it is easy to tune multiband, and the ATU had not a bit of problem tuning into this antenna and blasting a full 7w output into the stormy ether. It made bandswitching a breeze. (that's a pun) The receiver in this little box is remarkable. I spent time between QSO's mopping up water and trying to keep the rain from blowing in through a couple leaky windows.
It was so much fun I did it again last weekend during Jeanne. I've had my fill of Hurricane QRP however for this season. NO MAS NO MAS! Get one of these suckers. You can never tell when you will be running Hurricane portable or Tornado portable or Earth Quake portable or wires down during the Ice Storm portable or if you live in Hawaii or Guam maybe Tsunami portable.
|
|
| WB8NUT |
Rating: |
2004-06-08 | |
| I don't get all the hype |
Time Owned: 3 to 6 months. |
I purchased the K1 from a guy who offered it on the Internet. The price was fair, and was well built with the latest factory mods/updates. I wanted one because of all the hype around Elecraft rigs. Well now that I have had the K1 for almost six months, I really don't understand all the hype. Don't get me wrong, it is an o.k. radio, but not the best thing I have ever used by any stretch. My TenTec Argonaut V runs circles around the K1 on CW. Granted, the Argo is about three times the price, but the way some people talk, you'd think the K1 was the ultimate radio. One criticism is the the volume and rit controls seem rather flimsey. I would have expected a sturdier part that is mounted to the cabinet and not just the circuit board.
The assembly manual is nice and easy to follow, even though someone else built the kit. I'm sure it is a nice kit for anyone into building. |
|
